Monday, June 30, 2014

Italian Train Schedules for Dummies


We enjoyed our night at Vilma's Bed and Breakfast in Sirmione, and made friends with her dog, Spritz. The 23 mile route for today was very direct, on busier roads, and therefore...yawn...not very scenic.  We wanted to get to Verona before noon because we were pretty sure that the train tickets we had secured online were not going to allow bicycles.  There was a steady flow of traffic, and the shoulder varied from a foot to five feet.  The Italian drivers are very good when it comes to cyclists.  Pete had told us they are required to give cyclists 3.5m when they pass.  I have not felt unsafe, period.  That said, when we approached Verona, I pulled a "deer in the headlights" move and took the second exit.  It "seemed" right, but actually took us on a busy road towards the airport (think hwy 14).  We got off at the first exit, took a deep breath, and asked the Garmin (I was thinking he ought to meet Siri) to take us to the train station.  15 minutes later we were at Verona Nuova and I went in to talk with an agent while Patty stayed with the bikes.
The line was long...at least 30 people and I noticed the ticket agents weren't exactly exuding sunshine. When it was my turn, I smiled and said "Buon Giorno".  And then, in halting Italian, I asked him if bicycles were permissible on the train I had tickets for.  "No".  I told him I would then need to buy two tickets, for me and my friend, and two tickets for the bikes...Verona to Florence.  He showed me his computer screen, I think I nodded, and gave him 40 euros.  I confirmed the departure time and the platform on which the train departed.  Phew...that wasn't so bad!  I was pretty proud of myself...smug, even.  I went back and showed Patty the tickets, smiling.  "What time does it get into Florence?" she asked.  "Uhhhh, I didn't ask".  She looked at the ticket.  "So, do we change trains in Bologna?" she asked.  "I'm not sure," I replied.
We took our bikes to the track where the train departed and discussed our strategy.  We could ask a train official as soon as we got off in Bologna.  We could even ask someone on the train.  I vaguely remembered his screen showing a 3:50 arrival in Florence.  Surely someone would know.  How hard could it be?

Pretty.Darn.Hard.  To start with, in all of the commotion of getting our tickets and then finding the correct track, we forgot to validate our tickets.  BIG no-no.  We could have been fined 50 euros.  The conductor overlooked our error...this time, but we decided he was probably not the one we should ask for help about our connection.  When we got off the train in Bologna, I stayed with the bikes and Patty went to find out about our connection to Florence.  She looked at the Arrival/Departure board...nothing seemed to fit.  So, she went into the station to talk to an agent.  When she came back, she said we needed the train to Prato where we would have to change trains again.  Really?  Where is that on my ticket?  Why didn't the ticket agent with the winsome personality at Verona tell me this?  All I could do was laugh.

We found the train to Prato, made the connection and landed in Florence around 5pm.  At some point, I'd like to read about the construction of the tunnels on the route from Prato to Florence.  The Italians are master tunnel makers and one that we went through had to have been 2 or 3 miles long.


Florence is a busy place, but we had good directions and made our way to Fabio's place with no trouble.  He has an interesting art collection and though he lives in the heart of the city, he has a beautiful garden where we will have breakfast in the morning.  We will be here for four nights.  It's nice to relax and not have to pack our stuff everyday.

We showered, then walked a short ways and had dinner.  We shared a couple of dishes...Sicilian bread with roasted vegetables and Burra cheese, ravioli stuffed with spinach, butter and sage.  And then...gelato.  I had fig and cream, Patty had cherry and pear.  

Tomorrow will be very special.  My son, Jeremy, and grandsons Jackson and Jordan will meet us at the Duomo to see the sights of this beautiful city.


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