As we got closer to Sulmona, the weather actually got better instead of worse. We climbed, and climbed, and climbed some more to Cansano where we were fortunate to find a little cafe open. Often, restaurants in Italy are closed on Mondays. We had our cappuccinos and warmed up a bit and then pressed on towards Campo di Giove. There was almost no traffic.
The ride was stunning. We were at 3515' at Campo di Giove, 4206' at San Leonardo Pass. We saw alpine hikers on the pass foraging for mushrooms, and sheep herders tending flocks on the hillside. There are still remains of sheep pens...rock fences that were instrumental in protecting the sheep from wolves centuries ago. The clouds climb the hillsides from the valley in rapid, aggressive movements, the sky completely changing in a matter of moments.
We started our descent and came around a bend to a panoramic view of the village of Pacentro. If I understood Pete and Shirleen correctly, some of Madonna's family lives here. It is incredibly beautiful. We stopped at a little cafe/bar and had a cup of hot chocolate. It's not at all like our hot chocolate, but rather like rich, dark, chocolate pudding. We figured we had earned it.
The ride back to Sulmona from Pacentro was all downhill with hairpin switchbacks and no traffic. Delightful. We got turned around riding through Sulmona, having only a general idea of the direction of Introdacqua, but it gave Patty and I an opportunity to tap the capability of the Garmins. We simply hit the "where to?" option, typed in Introdacqua, hit navigate, and enjoyed turn by turn directions all the way back to Pete and Shirleen's. Interestingly, while we both had a little over 41 miles for the day, I had our elevation gain at 3568'. Patty had it at 4123'. Weird.
As soon as we parked the bikes we were introduced to a very special woman. Nona Rosa is 100 years young and still very active. I didn't understand a lick of what she said, but her singing and presence delighted us. What a treasure.
We were treated to another fabulous meal, another specialty of Pete and Shirleen's that I will remember forever. Confit de canard. With an arugula salad, roasted peppers, good wine and conversation, the day was just about as perfect as you could wish for. We saw flashes of lighting and heard rolling thunder, but tomorrow we'll be heading north to Bologna and some warmer weather.
mom! cindi! grandma karolina and amy here in edgeley, north dakota. gram says, "wish we were there!" and "life is great!"-- just caught up on all your stories and photos. gram looked at the pics of nona and says she no longer feels old. cant wait to read more! travel safe. xoxo- amy
ReplyDeleteWe are sooooo loving being able to follow this trip. You are doing such a great job with text and photos!
ReplyDeletewoo hoo!
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